Ventures up Valkyrie – The Roaches

An exciting morning on this classic route in the Peak District lead onto a day of sunshine and fun climbing for all of us.

A quick plan to head off climbing was created after a days of work for all of us; Oli, Will, Lewis and I. Multiple route ideas were thrown around over the coming days and finally we settled on a mad 4 person ascent of Valkarie (VS) at The Roaches Lower Tier.

We headed up to this beautiful location, starting the day with the brisk walk up to the face. Once there we decided upon a link up of Pebbledash (HVS 5a) to Valkyrie (VS 4c) as this alternative start looked like an enjoyable extension to this Peak District classic.

Pebbledash (HVS).

Climbing in a team of four was an interesting logistical challenge, working out leaders and seconds climbing order to create an anchor point capable of swinging leads while also incorporating two ‘spare’ people at the belay stance, even so all four of us racked up ready to go. Will took charge of the first pitch which started as an open cracked gully containing what looked like many solid gear placements. Lots of bridging got Will up this pitch and he then deftly negotiated the scary looking traverse across a rather blank section void of hand holds apart from two widely spaced cracks. He edged out towards the safe and secure foot hold, however getting there was a trusting a strechy move out on one handhold; once the foothold is gained though the move across becomes easier. Once Will made his belay spot at the top of Pebbledash, we all followed up and easily fitted all four of us on, and in, the belay stance, relaxing in the sunshine while Oli climbed on up and readied himself for the main pitch of Valkyrie.


Seeing the ‘Nose’ of the main route for the first time from the ground was a little daunting, made only worse by Oli explaining we would have to climb up, over, and down this rocky outcrop. Not only this but also attempting to find “a sneaky foothold” under the Nose of the route complicating this already scary, yet exciting, route. He set off making easy work of the pitch. However, for the rest of us climbing this was a scarier story, the description from Oli was “just before you bottom drops out you’ll find the secret hold” and proved to be wholly correct. So, after Will had lifted me up to reach the first holds which seemed to be miles above my head, I hand railed across and down the large crack. Jamming all the way up to my elbow at points and leaning back across the gap using a side press and low undercling to inch slowly over finally stepping through, without any notion of where this elusive foothold could be, and wiggle out along a small sloping ledge. All of us climbed cleanly over the gap (eventually) at the base of the nose and then enjoyed a rest at the corner before moving on up.

Down-climbing the ‘Nose’ of Valkyrie (VS).

After the scary bottom-dropping section is a high reaching, slabby climb which suited many of our styles of climbing. The pinnacle of this route came for me when the move required a large rock-over pulling on some small slopers, which I loved, and came up over the top to find Oli beaming in the sunshine. Lewis came up this pitch next and it was great watching someone with little outdoor climbing experience take on such a challenging climb and complete it with what looked like relative ease. Will came up next after deconstructing the anchor, Lewis and I watched from the side as we had descended from the top anchor point and enjoyed lounging in the sun for a short while until everyone was back together again. This was a proud moment for all as we looked back at the previous pitch, congratulated Oli on his lead, and Lewis on one of his first climbs being such a notable classic.

One thing we certainly didn’t realise was how long this climb would take us, and it was now late in the afternoon so we took the descent path back to our bags and had some lunch. While we were snacking Oli and I wandered off to retrieve a piece of ‘crag swag’ (forgotten gear) I’d spotted on an easy VD route. Oli free-soloed up Prow Cracks reaching the nut and quickdraw easily came out, we decided to give it to Lewis to start his rack off.

Lewis enjoying the view after the climb, upper tier in the background.

After this short break we headed up to The Upper Tier, Lewis and I had a few routes in mind but only managed to get one done, I chose to do a lead repeat of Right Route (VD) almost exactly a year on from when I climbed this route as my first trad lead. I was able see how much I had improved not only in my climbing technique, but equally my trad placement skills. I remember the fear I felt the first time, needing to place gear every few moves, on the other hand this time I was comfortable climbing the whole thing. Especially my anchor building skills, which previously I had to be guided through, this time I was able to make quick decisions on placement and angles of the nuts and slings used to get Lewis up by me with no difficulty at all.

Joe’s Portholes (we think?).

From what I was told, Oli and Will took on a much harder climb, an E1 Oli had been wanting to tick off for a long while we tried our route. However, they seemed to get terribly off route after sequencing an overhanging section wrong leading to an off route adventure but nonetheless had fun all the same it seems, and got some suntanning in at the belay point.

While these two quested up their challenge, we finished ours and planned another route, Kelly’s Shelf (S), however found I had the wrong size cams and nuts for this climb, mainly needing tiny ones when I had the largest ones on my gear loops, and thus have decided to go back and try it again soon. So turned to the many boulders scattered around the location and created our own routes up them using any chalked up holds we could find, and challenging each other with some crazy dyno moves as well as a sticky traverse for the final climb of the day. We all walked out and went home our separate ways with promises to be back again soon.

Thank you for reading.